While the dates vary, and you’ll want to check with your local offices, most permits go on sale at the start of November and range from about $5 to $15. Both National Forests and BLM lands require permits beforehand. 

Obviously, Christmas tree permits aren’t available on every public land as not every landscape is covered in pine trees. The rules for each public land’s tree availability can change yearly as the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management prioritize protecting natural resources.

Rules for Cutting Down Your Own Christmas Tree

Here are some general guidelines for cutting down your own Christmas tree:

• Most holiday tree permits are issued in November. Know your location, the weather, and your ability to traverse through snow.
• Dress for the season. Always be prepared for the cold and snow, and start tree hunting early in the day to have plenty of daylight hours.
• Bring emergency supplies, including water and food and a first-aid kit.
• Remember to tell someone where you are going. Your cell phone may not work on many forests.
• The tree you choose must be at least 200 feet from main roads, recreation sites and campgrounds, and stay away from areas along the sides of streams, rivers, lakes, and wet areas. Check with the ranger district for the proper distance.
• Select a tree with a trunk six inches or less in diameter, and prepare to cut the tree no more than six inches above ground level.
• Never cut a tall tree just for the top.
• Select a tree from overstocked areas and thickets. Watch restricted areas. Cut only one tree per tag.
• Attach your tree tag to harvested tree before placing in vehicle.
• Bring a rope and tarp to move your tree from the harvest area to your vehicle.

Most National Forest permits are available on Recreation.gov. Most BLM permits can be purchased here.

Have you cut down your own Christmas tree before?

The post Want to Chop Down Your Christmas Tree From a National Forest This Year? Here’s What You Need to Know appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

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Step 1: The Basics

Once you’ve fallen in love with ice climbing after taking lessons, you’re going to need to start gathering your own gear. Make sure you start with safety, pick up a climbing helmet, like this one from Black Diamond. The Vapor is great because it is lightweight, keeping you light on your climbs (plus it’s currently 50% off). You’ll also want to find a great and reliable harness that will be comfortable and breathable when you’re out on the mountain.

Similarly to rock climbing, ice climbing requires ropes, and they come in different sizes and widths. Make sure you find one that feels right for you, is dry-treated, and is UIAA-tested to be safe for falls.

Another important basic is a good – no, a great – pair of climbing shoes. This pair from Butora has a fuse sticky rubber outside and a natural hemp lining that will keep you comfortable when you’re hanging on the side of the mountain.

And as is the case for most great adventures, you’ll want to have a sturdy backpack that can hold all of your extra gear, snacks and anything else on your way to the climbing site.

Step 2: Important Gear to Keep in Your Pack

Pack extras. Extra ropes, extra socks, extra gloves, extra carabiners, and extra pulleys. The colder, the wetter, the more relieved you’ll be to have more gear, not less. You’ll also want to ensure that you have belays and rappels available to you to ensure a safe descent down the rope. For safe measures, you can also pack some cords in your backpack to ensure that you have extra rope. 

Step 3: Dress for the Occasion

When it comes to climbing in any weather, it is important to note that the higher you get, the cooler it will become. Put on your favorite base layers to prepare for your chilly adventure. Make sure you have a good pair of wool socks to keep your feet warm and treat your hands to up a good pair of rappelling gloves. A sturdy, but lightweight hard shell will also keep you warm when you’re climbing up the side of a cold, icy mountain.

Ice climbing is an intense, and potentially very dangerous activity if you aren’t fully trained, prepared, and focused. Make sure you’re ready to go with proper lessons, conditions, and the top equipment.

The post How to Build Your Ice Climbing Gear appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

Step One: Which Mushroom Is Best for You?

All mushrooms are different, of course, and they may vary slightly in the environments they prefer. Oyster mushrooms are a common choice for beginners, as well as turkey tail or shiitake. It’s important to know what you want from the beginning, though, so that you can tailor your growing setup to that variety.

Easiest Option: Buy a Kit

There are plenty of services out there that will send you everything you need to get started. These kits will include whatever substrate you need, likely in the form of wood chips or sawdust, and likely some hydrated lime. They will also include wooden dowels or some similar host material pre-inoculated with mushroom spawn. From there, it’s mostly a case of mixing these ingredients and storing them properly.

It’s All in the Mix

Your kit might come with a storage system, but otherwise, grab a plastic bucket or tub of some kind, clean it well, and get your substrate in there. You need to hydrate it properly, so it’s moist but not wet. When you grab a handful and squeeze it in your hand, it should drip a little bit of water and hold its shape. If your kit includes lime, mix that in. Then, mix in your spawn, evenly and well, ensuring as many points of contact as possible.

But Where in the Kitchen Do You Put It?

There are a few key points here. First, no matter where you put it, you have to maintain your mixture’s humidity and moisture throughout the growing process. A spray bottle should do the trick, and a plastic bag as a cover will help maintain humidity.

Temperature and Incubation

Got a thermometer handy? For incubation, you’ll want your mushrooms to live at around 68-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Depending on where you live, this may mean keeping it near a refrigerator’s exhaust for that warm air or an open window that gets some sun. Be sure to avoid direct sunlight, though. You’ll know your mushrooms are properly incubated when you see those white threads, mycelium, spread all throughout the substrate.

Fruiting

After incubation, bring the temperature down a little, into the low 60s. From there, it’s a waiting game, ensuring that you maintain humidity and moisture. When you see the mushrooms grow to a healthy size, it’ll be time to harvest and enjoy.

Intermediate: Buy the Spawn and DIY

You can save a little money and lean further into your own capability by simply buying the spawn and creating your own setup from scratch. A key difference in this approach will be finding or creating your own substrate.

Sourcing the Substrate

For this, you’ll want to harvest or source hardwood of some kind. No pines or conifers, since they’re too resinous. Oak, poplar, birch, or ash should all make great homes. If you opt for wood chips or sawdust, they should be made from these varieties of wood. You can also use cut hardwood logs, so long as they’re freshly harvested. Coffee grinds are a viable option, so long as whatever mushroom variety you grow can thrive in that acidity.

Sanitization and Pasteurization

If you’re using wood chips or sawdust, you’ll need to ensure that you don’t have some rogue bacteria or living things in your substrate. For this, you can place your substrate in a baking sheet and place into an oven, around 140-160 degrees Fahrenheit, for 10-20 minutes. Not enough to burn, just enough to sanitize. Alternatively, you could cover your substrate with boiling water, and that should work fine as well.

This process has the same effect as that lime mixture that would have come in your kit. Its alkaline qualities prepare your substrate in much the same way, so if you’re feeling ambitious, you could source some lime, find the right mixture, and go that route instead.

Adding the Spawn

Now, you can add the spawn. If you’re using wood chips, double-check your moisture levels. Mix in your spawn, cover it to maintain humidity, and let it be. Follow the same incubation and fruiting steps as you would with a kit, spraying it with water so it doesn’t dry out.

If you’ve opted to use a hardwood log, to add your spawn, you’ll want to drill into the log. Insert your inoculated dowels or whatever form your spawn came in. Follow the same processes until you see a lot of healthy mycelium. Here’s a tip for using logs: soaking them overnight in water can help trigger fruiting, if they’re ready.

Advanced: Creating Your Own Spawn

Essentially, this last step is a crash-course in cloning mushrooms. For this, you’ll need some internal mushroom tissue, so harvest a piece from the gills. Place it in a jar with some sanitized grain such as barley, wheat, or millet. For this, a microbe-proof air filter covering the jar can help the mycelium grow safely and without competition. Placing the mushroom tissue in between two sheets of damp, sterilized cardboard can also work. Grain is recommended, though, because when you later spread the spawn throughout your substrate, there will be a lot of points of contact.

What Will You Grow?

Now that you know some techniques, do you have a sense of what mushroom you want to grow? Will you opt for a shiitake or oyster, for taste? Will you grow reishi for its medicinal benefits? It’s hard to go wrong, but it’s easy to do. The rest is up to you.

The post How to Grow Mushrooms in Your Kitchen appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

Many mixed-use trails bring together hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders. While most of the time, the three groups peacefully enjoy the harmony of nature, occasionally, they butt heads. The waste horses leave behind is often the largest complaint against horseback riders sharing trails. 

However, horseback riders get away with leaving a mess. Why? Here’s what you need to know.

Is It Dangerous or Unhealthy?

The good news is health officials say horse manure is relatively “clean.” This means there are few bacteria or viruses in horses’ waste, especially when you’re talking about concerns over pathogens that harm humans, like Giardia and E. coli. 

This information comes from the Wissahickon Trails organization outside Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, that oversees local trails. The organization says horse poop is safe to be left outdoors, especially when compared to dog waste, which is very toxic and carries lots of bacteria. 

Is It Good Trail Etiquette?

While there aren’t many health concerns about leaving horse poop on hiking trails, what about trail etiquette?

Unfortunately, cleaning up after a horse is not as easy as a dog. It’s an even bigger issue if the rider is miles from a trailhead. 

According to American Trails, an organization that works to develop new trails and greenways, there are a lot of rules within the community. While these are not official laws, they guide the horseback community’s principles.

The guidelines say equestrians must clean up after their animals in a parking lot if the surface is paved or gravel. However, if it’s dirt, the manure can stay. People are encouraged to spread it out for the benefit of other visitors. 

While on a trail, horseback riders will generally leave it. The waste will break down in about two weeks and can benefit birds and insects while decomposing. 

Whether you like it or not, these are the guidelines for horses on a trail. Do you agree with the status quo? Tell us your thoughts in the comments.

The post Yay or Neigh: Is It Proper Etiquette for Horses to Poop on Hiking Trails? appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

Bear reminds us that our ancestors spent most of their time outdoors and were connected with nature—life back then was not centered around screens as it is for many people nowadays. Bear says that it’s important to keep grounded and sometimes just set off into the unknown or spend a night camping in the outdoors to truly connect with nature and reawaken the wild part of our inner selves.

“Have you experienced the hypnotic patter of rain on your tent, the clear call of an owl, or the rustling of the wind through the leaves at night? It’s a feeling of absolute freedom and belonging—a chance to reconnect with both ourselves and planet Earth,” wrote Bear in his book A Survival Guide for Life.

Stay Connected with Nature

Bear has often spoken about how it is important to stay connected with nature and how he tries to take early morning walks barefoot whenever he can.

“There is no trick to finding that connection. It could mean a city banker spending their lunch break in a park and taking their shoes off,” he told Men’s Health. “Walking is incredibly powerful . . . It could be as simple as stopping and listening to the birds, rather than looking at our phones. Take a moment to actively disconnect and just be. It doesn’t need to be complicated.”

“Nature and the outdoors are a universal and deep-rooted language that we can all pick up once we get immersed,” he says.

Rediscover Your Wild Self

Bear also believes that outdoor adventures help children to build confidence and pride, and as chief scout, he is always happy to help scouts young and old reconnect with nature.

In his new book, Do Your Best: How to Be a Scout, Bear stresses the importance of rediscovering our “wild” selves so we can live more freely.

He suggests 10 ways to rewild yourself:

1. Go barefoot (but watch out for glass and splinters).
2. Eat wild—go for fruit instead of crisps [potato chips] and sweets.
3. Stay outdoors and only go in when you need to.
4. Try some forest bathing.
5. Start an allotment.
6. Travel to a new outdoor destination near you.
7. Get some morning light on your skin every day.
8. Listen to the dawn chorus (it gets the day off to such an optimistic start).
9. Walk as much as you can.
10. If in doubt, go camping.

Do Your Best: How to Be a Scout by Bear Grylls is now available in the U.K, Ireland, and Australia/New Zealand, and it will be published in April 2024 in the U.S. Buy it here.

The post 10 Ways to Rewild Yourself, According to Bear Grylls  appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

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Fire Pits and Gear

If you’re looking to plan a bonfire, invest in a high-quality fire pit that will last for ages. A high-quality fire pit from Solo Stove will definitely elevate your backyard party. Solo Stove’s smokeless fire pits will keep you toasty while you roast your marshmallows and spend time around the campfire with your favorite people. Check out the company’s firewood and fuel options too. 

Next, don’t forget camping chairs for your guests. As the night gets colder, make sure you have plenty of blankets on hand. Try one of Rumpl’s beautiful quilted blankets to keep you and your guests warm and cozy all evening.

Snacks and Treats

To host a bonfire, the only thing you really need is a fire—but it wouldn’t be a real party without some delicious snacks. Here at Outdoors.com, we love our s’mores. If you do too, make sure you have a kit ready for your bonfire. And since we’re in the season of Halloween, try adding different chocolate candies to your s’mores for a delicious twist of a classic treat. If you’re looking for a savory classic that you can cook over the fire, pick up some Jiffy Pop. Other delicious options include campfire nachos, skillet brownies, or even a pizza over the fire.  

Safety

When you’re having a bonfire, take steps to make sure you and your guests are safe, especially during this time of year when there are dead, dry leaves on the ground.
For instance, double check that you have a working fire extinguisher nearby, just in case. You can also keep some burn gel handy in the off chance someone gets a little overly eager when roasting their marshmallow.

The post How to Plan the Perfect Cool-Weather Bonfire appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

Here are a few tips to change your perspective on the desert, so you can get a taste of everything it has to offer.

Tips: Be Cool, Stay Cool

The most intimidating part of the desert is, of course, the heat. I can’t blame someone for being trepidatious about hiking somewhere with killer heat, with little to no shade and a distinct lack of water. The thing is, entire ecosystems of plants and animals thrive here—people, too, for millennia. With a little care and know-how, so can you.

Soak Your Clothes

After a few miles hiking in the desert heat, coming to a stream feels like a blessing. And the best part of this experience? Taking off your hat, your shirt, and your buff and get them sopping wet before putting them back on. You may want to avoid soaking your lower half, since that can encourage chafing. That wet shirt, though, will do a great job keeping you cool until the sun dries it out again.

Cover up

There’s two schools of thought for what to wear in the desert: either cover every inch of your skin or wear as little as possible. Hiking in short shorts can feel great in the heat, and some folks especially love that freedom of movement, but then you have to be diligent about sunscreen. The safest, most efficient option is to cover up with loose, flowing clothes. It may feel counter-intuitive, but having tried both, I think the best thing to do is limit sun exposure by covering up.

Bring Salt

Don’t pack out your Himalayan salt lamp, and you don’t need to bring salt packets from fast food joints either. What you do need is some source of sodium in your food bag. This can be a bag of chips, crackers, whatever. What’s important is that you go out there with a way to replenish your sodium. Especially over a few days, you’ll sweat a lot and rehydrate and sweat a lot more, and a lack of sodium can give you some serious muscle cramps.

Avoid Waterproof Shoes

When I hiked through Southern California, I started off in a pair of mid-ankle, Gore-Tex hiking boots. They were probably a size and a half too small, which didn’t help, but also, that waterproofing didn’t let my feet breathe at all. I ended up plagued with blisters and needed four rest days in a row to recover. The best hiking shoes for most folks in the desert are light, breathable, trail-running shoes. Bring breathable boots if you need ankle support, but waterproofing will encourage the buildup of moisture, heat, and friction—all of which cause blisters.

Have an Anti-Chafing Strategy

Look, sometimes when we walk a lot, our thighs rub together. Here’s the key approach for this issue: prevention. When you’re hiking and sweating and everything’s moving smoothly, you’ll be okay. Then, you’ll take a break, and you’ll stop sweating, but your skin will be far more prone to friction when you get moving again. It’s the breaks that matter—toss on some powder, some vaseline, or some specific anti-chafe products before you get going again. It can help prevent a world of hurt.

Water to Water

Hiking through the desert you’ll notice that life flourishes where water runs. The most important practice in the desert is learning how much water your body needs between each water source. We call these stretches between sources “water carries.” Information on water carries is the number one most important information you’ll need for desert travel. You need to make sure that information is up-to-date, too, since our nation’s waterways are ever-changing, and in dry years, some streams may not run. Take a few water bottles, bring a 2-4 liter hydration bladder with you, and pack an extra liter for safety, especially if you’re embarking on an especially long carry. It’s tough, because water is the heaviest thing you’ll carry, but it’s much better to have too much than too little.

Abundance Is Everywhere

I remember hiking through what’s called “The Bootheel” of New Mexico. While it’s not quite the Sahara, the expanse felt a little bleak at times. We were treated to flat ground for almost 200 miles, full of sagebrush and red dust. It was hot, the days were long, and we relied on water caches left by helpful locals. I loved it, but it was tough.

Then, we descended down into a valley to walk about 70 miles along the Gila River. The difference was extreme—suddenly, there was plant life, swallows, butterflies, bears, cougars, migrating elk, and more. It taught me that the desert wasn’t all scarcity. After that experience, I felt little doses of it the rest of my time through the desert. It woke me up to that spectrum of fullness and absence that populates areas like this, and that is an entire world to explore once you see it.

You’re Hardier Than You Think

Out in the heat, you can find the beauty of petrified sand dunes and massive mesas showing the age of the earth. I recommend Leslie Marmon Silko’s memoir, The Turquoise Ledge, for a book that will show you a life in lockstep with the Sonoran Desert, observing and writing as a part of the whole.

I love desert life for the way it succeeds despite adversity. The plants, the animals, they adapt in order to survive. Venturing out into the desert yourself and finding out you can do the same is an incredibly rewarding experience. When you get back to the trailhead, back to society, covered in dust, with dry, cracked lips, you’ll know yourself a little better.

The post How to Fall in Love With Desert Travel appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

I loved to play outdoors as a child, and I also had horrible eczema. While I loved the cooler seasons, my skin—especially the skin on my hands—did not. These years of cracked, dry, and at times even bloody skin have made me kind of an expert on how to protect yourself from the dry air this fall and winter. Here are some tips.

Consult a dermatologist before adding these items to your skincare routine.

This post contains affiliate links. Outdoors.com may earn a commission when you make a purchase through these links. Thank you for your support.

Face

When you’re outdoors in the cold, the majority of your body is usually covered, except your face. The skin on your face is some of the most delicate on your body. When it’s really cold, many people opt for a face covering or balaclava to keep their face protected from the elements. You should also consider using sunblock to help prevent sunburn.

When you come in after a day outdoors, pamper your skin to prevent discomfort and dry skin. Pick up a high-quality face lotion that will help keep your skin hydrated no matter what you put your skin through. Make sure you also have a jar of Vaseline to put on any dry skin patches, and you can also try “slugging,” a South Korean tradition of covering your face in a layer of Vaseline before bed. You’ll also want to make sure to apply lip balm at the end of the day. 

Hands and Body

It might not be cold enough to walk around in gloves yet, but you might consider starting early, if you tend to suffer from dry skin. If you find yourself reaching for the hand sanitizer frequently, beware. It can really dry out your hands and leave you feeling uncomfortable. Never fear though, Dove created a hand sanitizer infused with shea butter to keep your hands clean and comfortable all fall long.
After an outdoor adventure, make sure you moisturize your entire body. This moisturizer from Gold Bond has aloe in it, which will help soothe any cracks and dry patches. You can also try Corn Huskers Lotion, which is made to nourish your dry skin after a long day of hard work—or, in this case, play.

The post How to Prevent Dry, Cracked Skin This Fall and Winter appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

However, animals leave clues behind, and knowing what to look for can be a good way of tracking them or simply knowing what you’re sharing your walking trails with.

In his new book Do Your Best, How to Be a Scout, Bear Grylls helps scouts (and everyone else) learn to recognize signs of animal life in the wilderness. Here are some highlights.

Look for Droppings

“Droppings are a very good clue to which animals have passed by,” says Bear.

The droppings of each animal have a distinct shape and color. Deer leave droppings behind in clumps or scatterings, usually circular in shape and gleaming. Fox droppings are dark and contain fur and seeds, while badger droppings look like long, dark, wet tubes.

The droppings of hedgehogs are also distinguished—they’re dark brown or black, slightly pointed, and often sparkling as they contain the skeletons of beetles. Rabbit droppings look like small green-brown balls.

Study what common droppings look like, and you’ll be able to recognize when you see them in the wild.

Hide Yourself

“If you’re tracking an animal and don’t wish to scare it away, you’ll need to try and hide and conceal yourself. That means from sight and from smell,” says Bear.

His advice, if you’re tracking an animal or hiding from it, is to position yourself downwind from where the animal is, so that it does not smell you. Also stand still and keep low, lying close to the ground. Walk lightly, too. Bear says that the original scout Robert Baden-Powell recommended walking on the balls of your feet rather than on your heels.

Bear reminds us of the five Ss of great camouflage: shape (try to disguise the human shape maybe by draping a coat over your head and shoulders), shine (avoid displaying anything glistening like jewelry), shadow (which could be cast by the sun or moon, so stay in shade to avoid this), sound (move quietly), and silhouette (often created if you are on a ridge).

Know the Different Animal Tracks

“Every animal leaves different tracks. Get to know the subtle differences between different kinds of paw and hoof prints,” says Bear in Do Your Best, How to Be a Scout.

Even the front and back prints of an animal can look different. Rabbits and hares, for example, have larger hind feet than front feet. Here are some tips to get to know different animal tracks before you set out.

Find Their Home

Another way to track animals is to look out for where they might live. For example, badgers live in setts, bears in dens, beavers in lodges, birds in nests, and rabbits in warrens. Clues might be mounds where earth has been dug up or depressions in the ground where an animal has slept.

The dwelling of each animal has different properties. For instance, a badger sett has large entrance holes that are around 30 cm (about 12 inches) across. These slope downwards and are sometimes at the bottom of a tree. They connect to networks of other tunnels underground.

Keep these tips in mind when preparing for your outdoor adventure, and you’ll be better prepared to figure out what wildlife you’re sharing space with.

Do Your Best: How to be a Scout is now available in the U.K., Ireland, and Australia/New Zealand, and it will be published in April 2024 in the U.S. Buy it here.

The post How to Track Animals Like a Scout, According to Chief Scout Bear Grylls appeared first on Outdoors with Bear Grylls.

An avalanche is a wall of ice and snow that hurles down a mountain. A person trapped in an avalanche risks injury and even death. Understanding where avalanche risks are is critical while enjoying time in the mountains in the winter.

In just Oregon and Washington State, avalanches were responsible for five deaths last winter. British Columbia saw a particularly deadly year in Canada, where 14 people died in eight separate incidents. According to the National Avalanche Center, avalanches kill more people in U.S. National Forests than any other natural hazard. On average, there are about 25 to 30 deaths a year.

The National Avalanche Center and several regional organizations provide daily forecasts of avalanche risk levels. However, officials say it’s up to you to spot problem areas, have proper training and be equipped with the right tools when venturing into avalanche territory.

How to Predict An Avalanche and the Warning Signs

Before heading out, you’ll need to do some research. First, check avalanche forecasting sites for recent avalanches. Those may be the best areas to avoid, especially when there are persistent slabs, meaning recurring avalanches. The same is true for checking current and recent weather in the area. A heavy snowfall or steady rain increases avalanche risks, and you need to consider that when planning your day.

Once you’re in the backcountry, there are several factors to remember. If you see an area that recently had an avalanche, that’s a good indicator that it can happen again. Also, keep an eye out for snow drifts or cornices of snow. That’s where large amounts of snow stack up, increasing the likelihood of an avalanche.

Identifying Avalanche Terrain

There is an ideal slope angle for an avalanche. Generally, any mountain slope that is 35 to 50 degrees increases the risk of sliding snow and ice. Slopes less than 30 degrees rarely see avalanches. Buying and bringing an inclinometer will help you understand the dangers of the trails you are hiking on.

Here’s how to efficiently use this tool.

Tools and Safety

Besides an inclinometer, anyone venturing into avalanche territory should carry a transceiver or beacon if they become trapped under the snow. Other tools include a probe, which can be almost any stick that can check the snow for a person underneath. Plus, a shovel to help dig someone out.

Avalanche experts suggest you always travel with others in winter in the mountains. If an avalanche traps someone under snow, a second person must dig them out and call for help. Also, move one at a time through an avalanche-prone area to reduce triggering an avalanche.

Finally, experts recommend taking an avalanche safety class to further all these skills.

As the National Avalanche Center says, “The forecast is only a starting point. You control your own risk by choosing when, where and how you travel.”

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